DIVING NORTH ABACO - Abaco Journal April 1998

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DIVING NORTH ABACO
by Christyne Legault, Montreal

After months of anticipation we literally threw our suitcases at the villa door and the four of us ran to the beach. The brilliant turquoise water and three mile stretch of beach was unlike anything the other three had ever seen. My immediate thoughts wandered to the reefs and diving. After all, that is the lure which brought me back.

As I headed for the Dive Shop the following morning, El Niño-generated winds felt good in my face. Five minutes later, after being informed that all diving had been cancelled until Monday, the wind didn't feel so good. It was Saturday and our husbands were delighted to have the chance to play golf.

The predictions of more heavy winds and rain proved accurate for Monday. All diving was again cancelled. Tuesday proved to be much the same without rain. The Guana Reef trip was again postponed due to poor underwater visibility and high seas off Guana Cay. Golf, sailing and other activities filled our days. We were having a great time but I came here for diving and time was running out.

On Wednesday something quite unusual happened. Diving was possible off Green Turtle Cay. Johnny Cash's Dive Shop in Treasure Cay booked us at Brendal's Dive Shop for the following day. What truly surprised me is that on Abaco the desire to serve the visitors takes preference over the 'almighty buck'. Johnny Cash and Brendal Stevens are very much in competition but our satisfaction came first.

Brendal's wife Mary greeted us at the ferry dock with a warmth that matched her smile. The boat was ready and all our needed equipment was ready to go. After a quick check to make sure everything fit, we were on our way.

The first dive was at Coral Cavern. Brendal personally guided us to a new world - one he knows as well as the one above. With an underwater writing pad he identified all the fish and coral we saw. He certainly didn't leave his marvellous sense of humour on the surface. Brendal removed his regulator at one stage and presented his air to a fish. Huge bubbles floated upward to the surface some 50 feet above our heads.

The cavern was unforgettable. Small holes in the roof allowed rays of sun to penetrate the darkness, giving us some light and a sense of reassurance. Leaving the cavern, our wonderful show went on. Brendal is indeed part fish and must be related to Neptune. Even the fish seemed to appreciate this.

On the way home we were served a much needed rum punch. Brendal and his son took care of all the equipment while keeping an eye on us and preparing the next group of divers. I have made many dives in other locations and have never been so well taken care of.

Please know, Johnny Cash and Brendal Stevens - We will be back! It is my guess the feeling and beauty of this place is not to be found anywhere else and you are all a part of what makes this so.

(Translated from French by Francine Durrell.)

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