November 1998 Table
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Current Issue of The Abaco Journal
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DAY TRIPPING TO SANDY POINT
Many communities on Abaco cater to tourists with docking facilities, hotel accommodations
and lots of bars and restaurants. Others are virtually untouched by the tourism industry.
The settlement of Sandy Point, 49 miles south of Marsh Harbour, lies somewhere between.
Sandy Point is a fishing village situated on a peninsula at the extreme south-western
point of Abaco. If you expect Bahamian villages to be nestled close to the sea and
smothered in coconut palms, Sandy Point will not disappoint you.
It was only in the early 1960s that a road to Sandy Point was constructed and brought
it residents fully into the Abaco community. Sandy Point people are respected throughout
The Bahamas as being friendly but independent and self-sufficient people. For instance, all the small boats and skiffs in Sandy Point are made right in the settlement.
The main industry is fishing, mostly rock lobster and scale fish, which employs about
80% of the men. The lobsters are processed in Sandy Point and exported to the US.
Tourism facilities are expanding, however, and Sandy Point is well worth a day trip
from anywhere else on the island.
The road from Marsh Harbour to Sandy Point is paved and in excellent condition. The
journey down is rather featureless as it is mostly through pine forest. In less than
an hour, however, you will be turning a long bend towards the airport and then making
a sharp right to the north at the community picnic site. From this position you can
see Sandy Point stretched out before you with its azure shallow waters, long golden
beach and masses of coconut palms.
Most of the houses you will see during that last mile between the picnic site and
the main settlement belong to winter residents who discovered Sandy Point decades
ago and consider themselves privileged to be accepted into such a charming community.
You will see Oeisha Resort, a large building by Sandy Point standards, that provides accommodation
mostly for visiting bonefish anglers. Meals and a bar are available and there's also
a beachfront cabana.
The settlement itself is set out like fish bones: one central backbone, Queen Street,
with side streets running at right angles east and west. All the roads are clearly
named. The main crossroads occurs at the joining of East and West Bay Streets. Half
way down West Bay Street you will find E & E Grocery where you can buy just about anything,
including Sandy Point tee shirts. At the end of West Bay Street you will find the
government dock which is the town's centre of activity. You will usually find several fishing vessels tied up there.
Beside the government dock you will also find two restaurants: Pete and Gay Guest
House and Enza's Place. At Pete and Gay's you will see photographs on the wall left
by appreciative bonefish men, who often lodge in the comfortable air conditioned
rooms attached to the restaurant. There's a large dining room and a well-stocked bar and your
host is Stanley White, who runs the establishment with the help of his adoptive mother,
Glacie Dean.
Over the road, Enza Russell's restaurant is the longest-established in Sandy Point.
For over 30 years she has provided delicious meals for the community and its visitors,
a testimony to both the quality of her cooking and her friendly disposition. No bar
facilities.
A block north on the bay is the Seaside Inn Restaurant & Bar where the ambience is
laid back and friendly. You reach the restaurant by driving down Sandy Street or
walking a few yards along the beach from the government dock. The former proprietress,
Nancy Adderley, passed away earlier this year but the business is carried on by her family.
There are extensive bar facilities here.
The eastern shores of the Sandy Point peninsula are bounded by a tidal creek that
possesses its own peculiar charm. Julia's Beach Inn Club nestles beside the creek
at the end of Pear Street and is the largest of all the restaurants. Wedding receptions
are regularly held here. Your hosts are Julia and Basil McKinney, who are both very adept
at making visitors feel right at home. There's a pool table beside the bar, but don't
play a game with Basil unless you are very good!
One of the favourite restaurants of the local people is Big J's, at the end of School
Lane near the creek. It is mainly a take-out establishment overseen by Marinett and
Richard Walker, but there are tables inside as well as a small bar.
A word about drinking in native restaurants and bars. If you want a mixed drink such
as rum and cola or gin and tonic, buy a half pint of liquor and a can of mixer. Along
with them will come a glass filled with ice. You mix your own drink to your personal
taste, and if you have any liquor left over you can just slip the small bottle into
your pocket and carry it. It's yours. Not only is it a handy way of drinking, it's
far cheaper than the standard mixed drink.
Besides eating and drinking, what else is there to do in Sandy Point? Many people
go for the excellent shelling between the picnic site and Rocky Point to the south.
The beach between the picnic site and the settlement is about a mile in length and
well worth the walk. Walking around the settlement is a fascinating experience which will
allow you to see the local people at their everyday tasks. On the bay side of town
you can walk down one road, traverse the beach for about 40 yards, then walk up the
next one. This way, you can see a lot of the settlement without doubling back on your path.
You won't find many people walking the roads because there is an informal network
of pathways throughout the township, most of which take advantage of Pythagoras'
theorem.
While you are on the bay beach you will be able to see Gorda Cay in the distance to
the north-west. Disney has established its Castaway Cay resort complex there and
if the Disney Magic
is in port bringing in over 2,000 tourists, you will be able to see it clearly.
There is a particular charm in visiting a native settlement where there are no souvenir
shops and nobody particularly wants your money. Every business in Sandy Point is
owned by residents: there are no managers here. People will hail you as you pass
them by yet will not trespass upon your privacy. But don't be shy. As soon as you ask advice
or directions you'll find the local people will go out of their way to help you all
they can. Sandy Point people are friendly and want you to leave with a good impression of their lovely settlement.
One last word of advice: If you want a rock lobster (crawfish) or grouper meal, or
are descending with a large party, please call the restaurant of your choice a day
ahead. Sandy Point people appreciate their seafood freshly caught and prepared, and
that's the way you'll have it served if you give advance notice of your visit.
Beach Inn Club: 366-4102
Big J's Restaurant & Bar: 366-4020
Enza's Place: 366-4129
Oeisha Resort: 366-4139
Pete & Gay Guest House: 366-4119; Fax 366-4007
Seaside Inn Restaurant & Bar: 366-4120
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