HOLE IN THE WALL
by Jack Hardy
It amazes me that some native Abaconians and long time residents have never
visited Hole in the Wall, the most southerly point of Abaco. True, you
need a reliable high-clearance vehicle to make the journey and it's close
to 55 miles from Marsh Harbour, but the rewards are immense.
Once you have turned left off the Abaco Highway at the Sandy Point junction
a dozen miles past Crossing Rocks, you are in parrot country. One sight
of a large flock of our native parrots will make the day memorable.
The lighthouse at Hole in the Wall is now automated so you will miss the
friendly company of lighthouse keepers who used to keep visitors entertained
and informed.
The scenery is rugged, unlike anywhere else on Abaco. The vegetation is
scrub and prickly pear with plenty of dildo cactus. If you know where to
go, however, there are some sour and sapodilla trees with fruit in season.
The lighthouse is built on high ground which slopes down to the 'wall',
a promontory into the sea. The 'hole' is an arch towards the south of the
wall and outcrops beyond show that there were once at least three holes
in the wall. You can climb down into the remaining hole on a rare calm
day.
Hole in the Wall is one of the favourite whale watching areas of The Bahamas.
The North-East Providence Channel sweeps south of Abaco and is the route
taken by these gentle giants of the sea. If you decide to go fishing off
the 80 foot cliffs, be careful. What you hook may be way bigger and stronger
than you!
What makes the day for most visitors is an underground visit to one of
the many cave complexes at Hole in the Wall. Flashlights will be needed,
of course. The largest caves have a small opening to the right of the road
as you approach the lighthouse. There is a 10 foot drop into the hole and
the initial passage is too low for an adult to stand upright in. Only a
few yards take you into a clearer passage that leads into the main cavern.
This is a truly magical place with a high domed ceiling and dozens of passages
leading out of it. Take any one of these and you are soon faced with smaller
passages on several levels. At this point, only the serious troglodyte
would venture further.
The Hole in the Wall caves are not Carlsbad but it is remarkable that such
an extensive network lies just below the surface. There are stalagmites
and stalactites and bats and all the other cave accoutrements you expect.
If you are a gardener, take a bucket and trowel with you and bring back
some high nitrogen cave dirt. The fine black powder that settles under
nests of baby bats is especially sought after.
Follow the cliffs to the north and just before the first bluff you will
find a deserted homestead. Follow the coast to the west and you'll come
across beaches - and be able to see the hole in the wall clearly. If you
don't feel adventurous, just sit in the shade of the lighthouse and enjoy
a picnic lunch while you soak in the glorious scenery around you. Don't
forget to take home everything you bring!